There's Nothing Cute About Dry Skin or Hair...

Well, its about that time of year when hands get super ashy and hair gets dry and brittle. So its time to put together your Fall/Winter Skin Care and Hair Care Regimen. Yes, ladies these do need to be adjusted with the change of season!!!

Remember the three C's!

CERAMIDES, COCOA BUTTER and COCONUT OIL


CERAMIDES
There have been studies that show that dry skin, which tends to be more prevalent in the colder months, is  linked to low levels of ceramides....So what are Ceramides??

Ceramides are lipids, or fatty acids,  that make up a large portion of your skin. Their claim to fame is that they aid in moisture retention and youthful looking skin. They act as a binder for your surface skin cells and a barrier from different elements from the environment to invade and wreak havoc.  Also, they ensure that the moisture in your skin stays put.

There are tons of products on the market that filled with ceramides:

Curel is known for their Advance Ceramide Therapy and they have a laundry list of products for every skin type. I personally like the Intensive Healing Cream. Its worth a try!

First Aid Beauty also has some great ceramide rich products! I use the their Daily Face Cream religiously! You can pick it up on beautysage.com or at any Sephora!

COCOA BUTTER

Cocoa Butter has been a staple in my skin care and hair care regimen for as long as I can remember. My mother would melt a stick of cocoa butter and add it to my baths. I use it on my face after I wash it in the morning and at night, all year round. Its high in antioxidants, and it penetrates the top layers of the skin. Its extremely high in Vitamin E which is great for scars and skin renewal. Its also great for hair. Its been proven to aid in the prevention of hair loss and it's also a great emollient. It can also alleviate scalp irritation. Its a win-win all around the board!

COCONUT OIL
Coconut Oil is, in my opinion, one of the best oils you could put in your hair. It gives the best of both worlds. It acts as a moisturizing oil and a sealant oil...meaning its molecular size is small enough to penetrate the hair shaft in small amounts and also able to coat the hair. It's best to apply to damp hair and leave in overnight. Because it can penetrate the hair shaft, it makes it a great candidate to be used as a pre-poo! You'll definitely see a difference if you are suffering from winter-dried hair!

What are your favorite winter skin and hair care staples?

Natural Hair Tutorial: Flat Twist & Curl

Hey KurlFriends! I finally got around to doing one of my signature hairstyle tutorials! Here's how I do my Flat Twist & Curl! Stay tuned... there will be more where that came from!! Hope you like loves!

Protective Style: My Obsession With Mini Twists

I have been OBSESSED with mini twists for the past two months. I finally gained enough courage to do them....

Benefits:

• Great Protective Style
• Long lasting (I've seen people leave them in for almost two months....UM that might be doing too much for me...I'm only doing the Three Week Challenge)
• No extensions or weaves necessary
• Very versatile
• When you take it out, you can possibly get another weeks wear out of it by wearing a curly fro

On a lonely Friday night (loser status), I began the process of washing, deep conditioning and twisting my hair:

Mini Twist Regimen:

• I washed my hair in four sections, using the As I Am Cleansing Pudding.
• I followed up with a much needed deep conditioner (As I Am Hydration Elation). I left it in for about an hour and sat underneath my Huetiful Hair Steamer. (FYI, this leaves my hair feeling LUSH!!!)
• I left my hair in the four sections and began to moisturize each section with the As I Am Leave In Conditioner, followed the As I Am Moisture Milk. I put my hair in chunky twists after moisturizing.
• I started with one section in the back and began to twist away adding a little bit of my homemade mango shea whipped butter (This is a great sealant and its made to order. To try my recipe, email hairistand@gmail.com). 

To do my entire head, it took me about 3 1/2 hours.

 

Mini Twists Maintenance:
After a couple of days, I noticed that my hair was going into frizz overdrive, so I redid the front. This time I added a little bit of  EcoStyler Gel for a slight hold. I wanted to give my hair more volume, so I decided to try adding flexi rods. I saw Naptural85 do it and I loved it. Check her out, she's definitely a hair crush!

 

Remember to keep your twists moisturized. I use a spray bottle with water and seal with my Mango Shea Whipped Butter or some Avocado Oil (no special reason for the avocado oil...It was the first one I grabbed :) )

So I'm 1 week down and I have three weeks to go....Wish Me Luck! Stay tuned for my Mini Twist Style Pictorials.

Signing off  luvs!

Hair NV Feature of the Day: Betsey Rene

I love hearing other Naturalistas tell their stories...Here's the story of one of my Hair Crushes...

 

Why I decided to go natural?

Well that's a funny story. It kind of happened by accident. Basically, all my life I was relaxed, but I was getting bored with just doing a doobie. I decided to experiment with weaves, which was cool, but my hair is pretty thin so the weave started to break my hair. Once I noticed that... I was like,  "nope not for me!" But I was still bored, so I decided to cut it (Rihanna style) because I was obsessed with her around July 2011. So I chopped it all off and hated it. I literally cried for like 2 hrs after getting it done.

I eventually got use to it and made that style my own! Since I was too scared to get it cut again in fear that I would look crazy, I decided to grow it out. While I was growing it out, I was going back in forth on whether or not I should relax it or braid it or weave it. I started doing some research. I kinda stumbled upon natural hair on YouTube and literally was addicted from that day forward.  I made my decision to go natural in late 2011. I transitioned with braids and protective styling for the most part, until I was more confident to wear my hair out.

My regimen?

Well that has changed from when I first started my natural hair journey. Before I used to co-wash and/or shampoo, deep condition, detangle once every week but now I believe my detangling skills were poor, so I was experiencing more mechanical breakage than actual hair shedding. Now I'm trying to "listen to my hair". I shampoo and deep condition my hair once every two weeks (because my hair doesn't need to be washed as often). I detangled in the shower and section into 6 parts and twist each part after detangling. I am currently using the L.O.C (Leave In, Oil, and Cream or sealant) method for moisturizing (which is amazeballs lol).
That's pretty much it lol. Pretty simple



Favorite Products:

Shampoo: Organix Acai Berry Avocado
Conditioner: Herbal Essence Hello Hydration or Creme of Nature Intensive Conditioning Treatment
Detangling Conditioner: Pantene Relaxed & Natural Conditioner
Leave in's: Kinky-Curly Knot Today or Shea Butter Leave In
Deep conditioner: Naat Brazilian Hair Mask
Oils: coconut, argan, castor, jojoba
Twist-out Styles: Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie and Carols Daughter Mimosa Hair Honey

Go-to styles?

High puff (definitely a life saver)
Bantu knots
Twists outs
Flat twists pinned back

 IG: aunaturaleb

To Trim or Not to Trim??

Trimming is such a controversial subject in the hair world. There is a school of thought that says you need to trim your hair every "x" amount of weeks, and then there is a school of thought that says trimming isn't necessary. My opinion has been influenced by what I've learned from research, training, personal experience, and general knowledge I've gathered in my young career. It must be understood first and foremost, that hair is DEAD. Yea, I said it.

Courtesy of Cosmetics & Toiletries              

The hair follicle (where growth occurs) is alive, the strand that you see, is not.  Secondly, it must be understood that hair grows from the root, not the ends. I'm not saying that trimming hair isn't necessary because it is, especially for those with damaged hair. Unbeknownst to most, hair is easily damaged. I've learned that hair is damaged in the following ways:

*Physical Damage:
- Heat Styling (flat ironing, blow drying)
- Combing and/ or brushing (which pretty much means regular/ daily styling)
- Washing and drying (the tugging and tangling of the hair)

*Chemical Damage:
- Sun Exposure (yes...the sun can harm your hair as well as your skin)
- Coloring/ Highlighting
- Perming/ Relaxing (Relaxed hair is permanently damaged!)

Courtesy of Cosmetics & Toiletries

This chart shows the levels of damage as it relates to the health of your hair. Very helpful I must say!


With that said, if you do the actions closer to the "bad hair" end of the scale, you will need to trim or even cut your hair, depending on the level of damage. Trimming your hair cannot MAKE your hair grow, but it does HELP you retain length. That is, in my opinion, where the confusion occurs! If your ends are damaged you will not retain length. The ends will break off from split ends, being weak and dry, losing elasticity and tensile strength, single strand knots, etc.
So the moral of the story is hair is DEAD and cutting something that is dead will not make it grow. On the other hand, trimming is essential to maintaining healthy looking hair and retaining length if you partake in any of the above damaging activities regularly. So I do not believe there is a set time of how often everyone should trim their ends.  I think it's subjective. My hair tells me when I need to trim it! When my twist outs and roller sets look frizzy at the ends, or if I can't smooth my ends out in a roller or curlformer set, I generally get the idea that my hair needs some tender love and care. So don't be afraid of those shears if you're goal is to retain length and have healthy looking hair.

Signing Off,

Hair I Stand's NaturalBornDiva88

*The diagrams and information discussed and shown in this post where obtained primarily from Cosmetics & Toiletries, Complete Cosmetic Chemist Training Program, Lesson 3: Hair Conditioners, Led by Perry Romanowski

HOTD: Curls, Curls, Curls I Do Adore

I've been in a really crazy mood with my hair lately....A real LOVE/HATE relationship. So late last night...I had an epiphany...I WANT CURLS! This led to my beloved Curlformers. This is, by far, my favorite hair style! I will put up a tutorial soon! This is great for transitioners because the curlformer leaves your hair nice and stretched and hides the two textures!!

What's the Tee? Cool, Calm, and Coiled

Introducing......

Cool, Calm, and Coiled 

" ...where you can find the freshest graphic tees of the season! Our designs celebrate the joy of being naturally empowered and encourage creative self expression!"

A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of attending a good friend's T-Shirt Launch party! Besides having a ball enjoying the ambiance, music, food...and EVEN a Spoken Word Artist, I was also able to get a pretty dope T-Shirt. The designer, and fellow natural hair enthusiast, Nicole Chavanne, has created some really unique, sassy, and powerful Tees. Her prices are extremely affordable! Don't believe me, go see for yourself!

 Go get yours, 'cuz I already got mines!!

And did I mention there was a Spoken Word Artist there also?? 
Check him Out on YouTube : Carnegie Kid

The video I recorded was too dark, but this is what he performed. Hope you like it!

You can get more information about Cool, Calm, and Coiled from:

Instagram: @cool_calm_coiled

Tumblr: coolcalmandcoiled.com

Twitter: coolcalmcoiled

Protective Styles For Length Retention

So....what's a protective style?

That's simple. My definition of a protective style is a hairstyle that, most importantly, protects your ends and involves as low manipulation as possible. Its a way to give your hair a break from the daily combing, twisting, and even touching that can take a toll on your tresses and ultimately prevent length retention.

Some great protective styles are:

Braids (with or without extensions):
Braids, if done correctly, can be a great versatile protective styles. Whether they are cornrows, "poetic justice" braids, or micros, they are a good way to give your hair a break. It is key to make sure that they are not too tight. Do not be afraid to tell your stylist to go easy...ESPECIALLY with your edges because those are the first to go!

Twists (with or without extensions):
Senegalese twists, mini twists, havana twists, curlique twists and flat twists are cute protective styles. Just like with the braids, make sure your stylist isnt trying to grab all your edges. I usually tell them to leave them out...That's what pomades like Edges are for...so slick those edges down.

Weaves/Sew-Ins:
 I love a good weave! There is a school of thought that says that weaves are not protective styles. I don't agree! I think if done properly, sew ins can be great protective styles. Now what constitutes "properly", The sew-in shouldn't be tight. You probably shouldn't wear them for 11 months out of the year and you need to make sure the hair underneath is in good shape (trimmed, deep conditioned regularly, and well moisturized). I prefer a curly or a kinkier sew-in, but some people like them straight. I would recommend that if you choose straight, be careful with the leave out. Don't flat iron dirty hair and also instead of flat ironing, try roller setting your leave out! If you apply too much heat on a regular basis, your curl pattern will be shot and your hair will be damaged.

Wigs/Half Wigs:
This is one of my favorite protective styles! I tell all my newly natural friends, " A Half Wig can save a life!" I love them because its the benefits of a weave, but you get to take it off at night :) This could be a staple style for a transitioner! I recommend washing, deep conditioning, sealing, and braiding the hair underneath. Style it so it looks natural! I've fooled many of people with a good half wig.

Buns:
My ultimate favorite protective style is the almighty high bun! When I F&*k up a twist out or Bantu knot out, a high bun can save the day, and I still feel cute. Its great for transitioners because you don't have to worry about blending your two textures...just slick everything up!

Remember with all these styles, you need to keep your hair moisturized...BY ANY MEANS necessary.  Get a spray bottle and add some water and your favorite carrier and essential oil (olive oil, jojoba oil, tea tree, peppermint, apricot kernel, etc) and spray your hair. You can also add some oil directly to your scalp!  Before any long term protective style, like braids or weaves, I recommend a  strong Protein Treatment (and a deep conditioner) before and a light protein treatment  (and deep conditioner) after. Protein treatments strengthen the hair, thus adding more protection against breakage. Also, don't leave your protective styles in for too long. Your hair could knot up and get matted and then you won't retain any length, instead you'll just see a lot of breakage. I would say not to leave any hairstyle in for longer than a month...but that's just the amount of time that I am comfortable with. Everyone's different!

My HairCare Line Up

A lot of my friends, and sometimes even strangers ask me what products I use. Well, it's no longer a secret. I'm bringing it to the masses:

Pre-Poos: 
Some people don't like or think pre-poos can be beneficial. I don't agree. Ever since I was a child, I remember getting them. If used properly, they can saturate the hair with oils so the hair is protected during washing. For instance, coconut oil is one of the only oils that can penetrate the hair shaft (after being left in for hours). This makes coconut oil the PERFECT pre-poo!

• Extra Virgin Coconut Oil
• Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Hair Cleansers:


Its essential to clean your hair. The buildup of dirt whether applied (products) or naturally forming (sebum, sweat, environment) can ultimately hinder growth. Wash as you see necessary. But over washing it (especially with sulfate shampoos) can cause irreversible damage. I wash my hair every 1 – 2 weeks…depending on how lazy I’m feeling.

• As I Am Coconut CoWash
• Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo

*I don’t use shampoos often. I only use shampoos after protective styles or before a protein treatment or hair straightening. For the most part, I cowash. I have a tighter curl pattern and cowashing has proven to be a better fit for me.*

Conditioners/ Deep Conditioners: 
Conditioning natural hair is so important especially if you use sulfate shampoos. A conditioner’s ingredients are meant to coat the hair and add back some of the good oils you may have washed away while shampooing. Whenever you wash your hair, condition it after! Conditioners are designed to protect and repair the hair.

• TRESemme Naturals Nourishing Moisture Conditioner
• As I Am Hydration Elation
• Spiral Solutions Deeply Decadent Moisturizing Treatment

 Leave In Conditioners:

A good leave in conditioner is just as necessary as a good deep conditioner. They have higher levels of humectants, which are ingredients that are meant to retain moisture (i.e glycerin, aloe, sorbitol, Vitamin E, etc). They are your number one savior when it comes to detangling! I prefer and recommend a thicker, creamier leave in for my thick and coarse haired girls (like myself). 

• As I Am Leave In Conditioner
• KeraCare Natural Textures Leave In 
• Cantu Shea Butter Leave In Conditioning Repair Cream
• Karen's Body Beautiful Leave In

Sealants:
Sealants are very important. Think of it in this sense. Companies sell their products in a set in order for your to maximize the results you are looking for. Beauty lines typically sell a body wash, body lotion, and a body butter. Think of the body wash as the shampoo/cleanser, the lotion as the conditioner, and the body butter as the sealant.  The sealant seals in all the moisture you added as well as what you produce naturally. It is usually a butter or an oil.

• A mixture of random butters and oils: mango, almond, jojoba, cocoa, shea, etc

Treatments: 
Sometimes you have to spoil your hair, whether its because you've treated it bad, been neglectful, or just because you want to give yourself a little TLC.  Whenever I straighten my hair or install a weave, I do a protein treatment (either before or after).  Your hair is made up of  fat and protein (among other things). Sometimes, the protein is damaged and by adding extra protein, you can gain some recovery for the follicles.

• Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment
• HENNA!!! (Don't sleep on Henna! You can add some color and give your hair some extra protection at the same damn time....for cheap!)

Stylers:
This category is completely subjective, even mores o than the others. What works great for me, may not work at all for you. Some of my favorites are:

• KeraCare Natural Textures Twist & Define Cream (great for twist outs, flat twists, mini twists, and braid outs)
• EcoStyler Gel (I use the maximum hold)
• Shea Moisture Curl & Style Milk (for bantu knot outs and roll /tuck styles)
• Hicks Total Transformation Edges (This stuff is sent from heaven! If you want a super sleek look, or if you just want your edges to lay down and act right, this is the product for you)
• Jane Carter's Wrap & Roll (great for curlformers, flexi rod sets, and roller sets)
• Ouidad Curl Quencher Hydrafusion Intense Curl Cream (Excellent for 4a-c Wash N' Gos)

FAV HairCare Toys:

• Denman Brush - essential for detangling
• Huetiful Hair Steamer - I use this for deep conditioning sessions when I want to spoil my hair. It leave it feeling so lush and soft. It uses wet heat (steam) instead of dry heat. Its like a spa treatment for your hair.
• Conditioning Cap - My mother has had one of these for as long as I can remember and I still use it. I use it when I deep condition without having to haul out the steamer or the huge hooded dryer.

 What products do you use?